Top 5 Mid-Grade Climbing Destinations In Spain

Because it’s there – George Mallory


Sella: The cliffs above sector final
Sella is well-known as one of the most extensive climbings locals in the Costa Blanca region of Spain. So extensive in fact, that you could easily spend an entire weeks holiday climbing here alone! This particular area (the cliffs above sector final) was restricted until a couple of years ago when The Orange House bought the land. Once the land was bought, all of the 7 climbing sectors were opened for everyone to enjoy! Loads of 5s and 6s for everyones taste.

La Pedriza:
Nestled in the foothills of Guadarrama mountains, La Pedriza is just one hour from Madrid. Its said to be just like Joshua Tree…only on steroids. Think bigger, and maybe even better! You have trad climbing routes, sport climbing and bouldering all in this stunning location. With roughly 2,000 trad and sport routes as well as another 2,000 boulder problems, you’ll have no problem finding a climb thats right for your skill level.

With over 1,000 routes on limestone walls, this once great sport climbing area of the 80’s has finally had the makeover it deserves. A local climber reequipped the routes bringing this picturesque canyon back to life. There is something here for everyone…deep water soloing, slabs, remote routes, roadside climbs and even hot springs for apres-climbing.

This is a south-facing crag which has been extensively developed. It is home to a great set of routes across the more accessible grades. Although it can often be busy, it is a fun place to try nearly 65 routes. Super easy approach from a small (tiny) car pull-in. Look up from there and the wall is directly in front of you. I have climbed this crag and spent a solid day working through several routes and grades. Plenty here to try out and I especially loved the view of the Xalon Valley.

If you’re looking for something a bit different, this area of North-West Spain is perfect for you. This crag which is often quiet is a great climbing getaway…especially if you’re in a van. For diverse climbing check out an area called Sin Destino Marino. Here you’ll find loads of cracks, leaning walls, slabs all on typical granite and its not too crimpy. The routes here are mostly in the mid-grades. The big canyon is lined with mostly 4+ to 6c. It is mostly well bolted but some areas have older rusty bolts so make sure you don’t climb anything with a red cable tie on it.

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